20. Dezember 2012

Desire for the Ocean .... / Lust auf Meer...


Massai at the South Beaches, Dar
Ein Massai an den South Beaches von Dar
After several weeks of travelling through the continent we are happy to see the ocean looming on the horizon between huge palm forests. Our destination: Mikadi Beach Lodge at the South Beaches of Dar Es Salaam.  We are enjoying the nice spot under mangroves, the stunning white sand beach and the clean, warm water of the Indian Ocean.


Yummy yummy, fresh coconut water
Hmmmm, so lecker, frisches Kokosnusswasser


Selous – or: Where are the Elephants? / Selous - oder: Wo sind die Elefanten?



Used just rarely, hence quite pristine: the road from the west to the 
Selous Game Reserve
Selten befahren und daher noch relativ unberührt: die Straße von Westen 
in das Selous Game Reserve

This is pretty much how I visualized East Africa
Beispielsweise so habe ich mir Ostafrika vorgestellt
The largest expanse of game reserve in Africa! UNESCO World Heritage Site! According to our „Reise Know-How Guidebook“ 2011 „with about 65,000 elephants probably the biggest coherent population of the pachyderms in Africa! THE recommendation of a travel expert.... For us reasons enough to visit the Selous Game Reserve in the southeast of Tanzania.

15. Dezember 2012

Tan-Zam Highway



Alas the chameleon is not as much impressed by our encounter as we are.
Von unserer Begegnung ist das Chamäleon leider nicht ganz so begeistert wie wir. 

I am not sure what is more fascinating: the baobab tree or its blossom.
Ich weiß gar nicht was faszinierender ist: der Baobab oder seine Blüte.

Welcoming Mbeya / Gastfreundliches Mbeya


YES, we can! Found on a school's wall in Mbeya.
YES, wen can! Entdeckt an der Außenmauer einer Schule in Mbeya.

Again we are coming into a town just to fill up our tanks and get caught for a couple of days. Mbeya is situated at an altitude of 1,900 m in the southern highlands of Tanzania. Rather unspectacular the place bottles us up by its hospitable residents.



Shortage of petrol in the Southwest of Tanzania: people are used to wait patiently. We are lucky since there is enough diesel. However we rather fill up our tanks – you never knowJ..
Benzinknappheit im Südwesten Tansanias: Die Menschen sind es gewohnt, geduldig zu warten. Mit Diesel gibt es glücklicherweise keine Engpässe, doch wir tanken sicherheitshalber voll – man weiß ja nieJ...

Karibu Tanzania


The border clearance is carried out fairly fast – although or due to the midday heatJ? 50 USD/person we have to pay for the visa which are valid for three months, and another 20 USD/month for the car. You immediately come aware of being in another country: The busses are more modern, there are clearly more chrom shining motor cycles on the road and less children than in Malawi and lots of stalls with cheap Chinese stuff along the ways. People here are more self-confident. They are farming vegetables, corn, tea, coffee etc. We enjoy the rolling landscape in various shades of green on our way to Mbeya. BTW: Karibu is Kiswaheli and means: Welcome!



The first hills in Tanzania: cultivated and in their different shades of green a true feast for the eyes
Die ersten Hügel von Tansania: bewirtschaftet und in den verschiedenen Grüntönen eine wahre Augenweide 

Malawi Sequel / Malawi Fortsetzung


Specially for „our chef“ Harald: here the proof of our boat tour on Lake MalawiJ
Speziell für „our chef“ Harald: hier das „Beweisfoto“ von unserer Bootstour auf dem Lake MalawiJ

Nkhata Bay at the Lake Malawi
Die Bucht von Nkhata Bay am Lake Malawi

Morning vibe at the Lake Malawi in Karonga
Morgenstimmung am Lake Malawi in Karonga

A Gentle Grumble for Momo / Ein leises Grummeln für Momo


Where does this smell behind me come frome?
Nach was duftet das denn hinter mir?

In Remembrance of Moses

When we entered the house, we only saw his back, covered with a white blanket: Moses was standing in front of Jenny's kitchen, patiently waiting for his milk. This tiny little elephant was not interested in us at all. Only after a while after having finished his bottle of milk he leisurely roamed into our direction. Very carefully his trunk explored Martin's legs and arms, especially his watch. Moses then pushed his mouth towards Martin's hand – the baby elephant wanted to be rubbed by Martin. Afterwards he came into my direction. I felt a bit like being scanned when his trunk went slowly along my hand, arm and leg. He was attracted by the camera. Me, I was attracted by the gentleness of his movements and the softness of his trunk.

Later on we were sitting on the terrasse: Jenny, her daughter Louise with her cute little baby Catherine, Martin, myself and all the dogs of the house. Moses was also there, standing slightly behind us. We then decided to take Momo out of our camper. After having been greeted by the other dogs she came to the terrasse when all of a sudden I heard a gentle dark grumble. Irritated I looked at Jenny, but she just smiled and reassured me: „That is Moses, and he is fine. He is just greeting Momo.“ 

Can you imagine: Moses was saying hello to Momo!! He even did it a second time. Unbelievable. I am deeply touched by this short encounter which I will never forget. Thank you, Moses, for this wonderful memory!



Moses' story went around the world. It openes the peoples' eyes 
for the horrific situation of the African elephants today.
Moses Geschichte ging um die Welt. Sie hat vielen Menschen die Augen geöffnet für die
katastrophale Situation, in der sich die Elefanten Afrikas inzwischen befinden.


RIP Little Moses


I would love to write more and positive about our time with Moses. Alas I have to tell you that the little one has lost his fight by now:-(. Young elephant orphans often die of colic and diarrhoea, such as Moses now too. In the end he is another victim of the poaching of elephants (and rhinos) in Africa, which only in the last two years has threateningly increased.



Bye Bye Moses. We will never forget you!
Servus Moses. Wir werden dich niemals vergessen!